Basic Diet: Bananas, grapes, mangoes, melons, eggs, dry monkey chow
Treats: Honey, Fig Newtons, Fruit Loops, marshmellows, gummi bears
Avoid: Strawberries, avocados, chocolate, caffeine, dairy products
Kinkajous are important pollinators - an ecological role which is filled by no other carnivore. Kinkajous'
tongues are long (up to 6 inches or 20 cm) and flexible, and can be used to extract nectar from flowers. As the Kinkajou feeds,
pollen adheres to its face and is subsequently deposited on other plants as the animal moves from blossom to blossom in the
While Kinkajous are classified as carnivores (meat-eaters), they are primarily frugivorous
(fruit-eaters). They particularly like figs, grapes, bananas, melons, apples, and mangos. Kinkajous also eat berries, insects,
honey, and eggs. Our hand-raised breeding pair Keena and Cosmo have found fruit yogurt, some vegetables, wheat bread, and
cereal yummy too. (Warning: There is some evidence that some Kinkajous might be allergic to strawberries.)
We like for our Kinkajous' main diet to be monkey chow, supplemented lavishly with a variety of fruits,
veggies, and grains. We occasionally add various other protein sources for them such as a small handful of dog or cat food,
and small amounts of meat like chicken, ham, and eggs.
In their natural habitat, Kinkajous drink water that has pooled in tree crotches and on leaves, but
fruit is an important source of fluid - when eating, they will turn on their side or back, or even upside down so as not to
lose any of the juice.
Note: Once they are weaned off the bottle, Kinkajous also should not be fed dairy products other than
yogurt, as Kinkajous are lactose intolerant, and dairy products can make them very sick.
I recommend that you have some sort of area or enclosure where you can be assured of your baby's safety
as well as the safety of your home. How much time is actually spent in this can somewhat determine what size it needs to be.
When designing your enclosure, please use common sense and always keep safety in mind. If you have an outdoor enclosure, it
needs to be very secure with both a top and a bottom on it, as kinkajous are very clever escape artists. A cement floor makes
for easy clean up. Nest boxes are essential for your kinkajou to sleep in. I like Rubbermaid's five gallon boxes. Simply cut
a round hole in the side of it and hang it from a wall. Bigger is always better for the size of your enclosure.
The enclosure for our breeding pair of kinkajous is in our barn. The inside cage portion is 12 feet
long by 4 feet wide by 6 feet high. The outside portion is 12' x 12' x 6' high. The floor is cement. We designed our enclosure
to potentially fit a variety of animals, so we used vinyl coated hardware cloth for wire. I would not recommend less than
1x1 holes in your wire, and since kinkajous can mark their territory, vinyl coated wire will last longer.
Kinkajous will need a heat source when the temperature falls below about 60 degrees. We can close the
outdoor portion of our enclosure and we add a heat lamp above their nest box for warmth when it gets cold. They cannot touch
the heat lamp or get to it in any way. Since kinkajous are arboreal by nature, enrich the enclosure with ropes, shelves, playstations,
and anything else your creative mind can come up with.